Miso-Glazed Black Cod
Sweet white miso lacquers black cod under the broiler, caramelizing the top over a silky, buttery interior.
By Steven Russell
Japanese
Sweet white miso lacquers black cod under the broiler, caramelizing the top over a silky, buttery interior.
This is the dish that made the pairing famous, and it works because of the fish. Black cod, sometimes sold as sablefish, is exceptionally high in fat. That richness is what lets it drink up a sweet miso marinade over a day or two and still come off the broiler silky and buttery inside instead of dry.
The technique is mostly patience. You cook a quick marinade of white miso, mirin, sake, and sugar, cool it completely, then let the fillets sit in it for a full 24 to 48 hours. During that time the miso seasons the flesh and its natural sugars set up the lacquered, caramelized crust you get under high heat.
The one thing to watch is the sugar. Wipe the excess marinade off before the fillets go under the broiler, because it burns fast and turns bitter. Done right, the top comes out glossy and deeply browned while the fish flakes into buttery layers underneath.
Combine the white miso, mirin, sake, and sugar in a saucepan over low heat, whisking until the sugar dissolves, then cool the marinade completely.
Why Gentle heat blends the paste smoothly. It must be fully cool before it touches the fish so it seasons rather than cooks it.Coat the black cod fillets in the cooled marinade, cover, and refrigerate for 24 to 48 hours.
Why The long soak is what defines this dish. The miso penetrates the fatty flesh and its sugars set up the caramelized crust.
Wipe the excess marinade off the fillets before cooking.
Why The sugar in the marinade burns fast under high heat. A thin film caramelizes, a thick coat scorches and turns bitter.Broil on high for 6 to 8 minutes, until the top is caramelized and the fish is just cooked through.
Why High, direct heat lacquers the surface while the fat keeps the inside moist. Pull it the moment it flakes.Finish with sliced scallion and a scatter of sesame seeds.
Why The fresh scallion and nutty sesame add contrast and a little texture against the rich, sweet fish.
A working private chef's guide to hosting a memorable summer dinner party in Palm Desert without fighting the…
Read the post →
Buying, timing, doneness, glazing, and resting: the small set of habits that turn fish from the scariest thing…
Read the post →Guest-chef Sunday brunches, private dinners, and menu consulting. Tell us the date and the occasion and we send back availability and a suggested menu.
A few details and we reply with dates and a menu idea.