Recipes /Hawaiian

Loco Moco

Hawaii's diner classic done right: a seared beef patty over rice, mushroom-onion gravy, and a fried egg with a soft yolk over the top.

By Steven Russell Hawaiian
The story

Loco moco was invented in Hilo in 1949, a cheap, filling plate for hungry teenagers: rice, a hamburger patty, an egg, and gravy. It has been Hawaii comfort food ever since, and it earns a place at a Sunday brunch. The trick is to take each part seriously. A hard sear on the patty builds the fond that flavors the gravy. The gravy is a real pan sauce, not a floury afterthought. And the egg goes on last, yolk soft, so it runs down into everything.

Cook it once and you understand why it is a whole meal on one plate.

Method · 6 steps

How to make it

  1. Divide the beef into 4 patties, a little wider than your mound of rice. Season both sides with salt and pepper.

    Why Salt just before cooking so the surface stays dry and sears.
  2. Sear the patties in a hot dry skillet, about 3 minutes a side, until well browned. Move them to a plate.

    Why The browned bits left in the pan are the base of the gravy.
  3. Lower the heat, add the butter, and cook the onion and mushrooms until soft and browned, about 6 minutes.

    Why Cooking them in the beef drippings carries all that flavor forward.
  4. Stir in the flour and cook 1 minute, then whisk in the stock, soy sauce, and Worcestershire. Simmer until it coats a spoon.

    Why A real simmer cooks out any raw flour taste.
  5. Slip the patties back into the gravy to warm through. In a separate pan, fry the eggs sunny-side up.

    Why Keep the yolks runny; they finish the dish.
  6. Build each plate: a mound of rice, a patty, plenty of gravy, and a fried egg on top. Scatter with green onion.

Bring it to the table

What to serve alongside

Hawaiian macaroni salad, the classic plate-lunch sideA wedge of fresh pineapple or papaya to cut the richnessKona coffee or a cold guava juiceChili pepper water on the table for heat
Chicken piccata over tri-colored farfalle alfredo
Cook this next

Chicken Piccata with Tri-Colored Farfalle Alfredo

Booking now

Have Steven cook for your table

Guest-chef Sunday brunches, private dinners, and menu consulting. Tell us the date and the occasion and we send back availability and a suggested menu.

Sunday brunchPrivate dinnersMenu consulting
Cook mode on. Tap a step to cross it off, screen stays awake.